Tag: #Exmoor

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Scottish shepherds, stock diaries and breeding sheep on Exmoor

Posting 1 Digital Archiving and Exmoor Sheep Records Over 2024, The Friends have been busy archiving, digitising and digitally archiving the many items held in our collections.  These archiving activities often allow, and indeed often require, time spent looking in depth at material held in the collections.  That has certainly been the case over this year.  It has involved looking at photographs in more detail and reading printed material in more depth.  These activities are necessary to help with the decision-making process about how best to catalogue and describe items and the best tags and categories to apply.  In some cases, this aspect of archiving work can throw up new insights and set off a new train of research and recently our interest was piqued by two sets of Stock Diaries held in our collection.  They are written by Robert Tait Little Robert Tait Little – hoaroak  and Bill Little Little – hoaroak.  These men were not related but both were shepherds from the Scottish Borders, who lived and worked on Exmoor from the mid-1800s to the mid-1900s.   Their stock diaries hold a wealth of information about the sheep raised on several Exmoor hill farms including, for example, Badgeworthy, Duredon, Winstitchen, Toms Hills and Hoar Oak to name but a few.   In some cases, they also recorded other bits of information which, over the years, have proved invaluable to the work of The Friends.  See for example this item about Shepherd John Renwick of Hoar Oak.  Renwick – hoaroak  We noticed that both men had recorded in their diaries the origin of rams used for breeding Cheviot sheep on Exmoor and the links of these breeding rams back to Scottish farms in the Borders.  Although the two shepherds’ diaries span over 100 years it seems this tradition of importing fresh blood from Scotland continued through their time on Exmoor.  Bill Little even left behind photographs of some of his prize winning rams.  With the help of a great friend of The Friends – Nora Solesbury, who lives in the Scottish Borders and has a lifetime’s expertise in sheep, sheep breeding and sheep markets – we’ve been trying to unlock the stories held in Robert’s and Bill’s diaries.  These researches formed a series of postings on FaceBook and Instagram in January 2025. They have been collated here into one blog posting. We will be adding to this blog and putting an alert on social media when there is new information to read.     Posting No. 2   Two Shepherd Littles.  Two sets of Diaries. Robert Tait Little and Bill Little were both shepherds on Exmoor, both came from the Scottish Borders and both had strong links to Hoar Oak Cottage.   Despite sharing a surname, the men were not related. Robert Tait Little – hoaroak  and Bill Little Little – hoaroak.  Both Robert Little and Bill Little are remembered for their knowledge of, and expertise in, breeding sheep –   especially Scottish Cheviots and Blackfaced – the two breeds of sheep imported onto Exmoor by Frederic Winn Knight of Simonsbath.  Part of their job as shepherds involved keeping records, and both men kept stock diaries which have, thankfully, survived and been shared with The Friends of Hoar Oak Cottage who have digitised and saved them in the archive. Stock diaries are kept by shepherds to record the day to day, week to week or even annual records of what happened with their sheep and include details of, for example, the monthly ‘head count’ of the flock, including live sheep, deaths or losses – often described as ‘gone amissing.’  The diaries also included the numbers of lambs born, sales at market, shearing dates, prices obtained for wool and meat as well as records of the rams used to breed with in any particular year.  The photo above, on the right, is of Robert Tait Little’s diaries from the 1880s to just before he died in 1907.  Small and neatly ruled notebooks they hold sheep records from across the Exmoor Hill Farms from his time as Head Shepherd for, firstly, Frederick Winn Knight and then for the Fortescue Estate.  One of the diaries is still with the family.  These four were discovered by The Friends family historian, Nicky Rowberry, held in a back room of the Devon Records Office in Exeter.  Roger Burton, in The Heritage of Exmoor, mentioned these books being in the Devon Record Office in the 1980s in amongst a box of Fortescue papers. That was where Nicky found them in 2012. A member of the Little family came forward with a fifth diary which completes the set. Image below of the inside cover with Robert’s beautiful script. The Friends arranged for all of the diaries to be digitised – thanks to the Devon Family History Society; and also, to be transcribed – thanks to many volunteers coming from the North Devon Voluntary Services in Barnstaple. The diaries have now been catalogued by the South West Heritage Trust and are available to view at the Devon Record Office, catalogue reference 1262M/0/E/21/7&8.   All five can be viewed digitally on request to The Friends.  Email: info@hoaroakcottage.org The photo above, on the left, shows the collection of Bill Little’s stock diaries which cover the period from the mid-1930s to the late 1960s.  These are a combination of ordinary notebooks as well as more modern stock record books printed for the Fortescue Estate.  The later include copy pages (flimsies) used with carbon paper in order to make tear out copies, one for the shepherd, one for the Estate and one left in the stock diary.  Most of these have now also been digitised – the rest are an ongoing project – and are safely in the hands of Bill Little’s descendants. Posting No. 3 The Hoar Oak Herding Stock Diary 1930s One exciting aspect of this Scottish Shepherd’s Diary project, at least for The Friends, is the small black notebook (image attached) which is revealed, by the writing on the inner page, (image annotated 1) to be Bill Little’s stock diary for the Hoar Oak herding dated 1933. In fact, Bill used this diary in the 1930s at Hoar Oak herding and then later, in the 1950s, when he was shepherd at The Mines herding near Simonsbath.  Wheal Eliza Mines herding and cottage is along the River Barle as it flows north of Simonsbath. The move from Hoar Oak to The Mines was linked to the distance the Little children had to walk to school.  The Mines was closer to Simonsbath and the journey could be done – to school and back – in the same day.  For many of us that would count as a good Sunday hike deserving a pint at the Exmoor Forest Inn!!  For the Little children it was just a matter of ‘getting to school.’ When Bill was shepherd of the Hoar Oak herding and the family lived in Hoar Oak Cottage he maintained the tradition of keeping a stock diary.  The image of one of the pages in this diary (annotated 20) is from the 12th of June 1937 and records in detail the numbers of ‘sheared hoggs’, ‘barren ewes’ and ‘sheared ewes’ that were running, that day, on the Hoar Oak herding. The image of another page (annotated 23) is shared for its stock records – the numbers of stock ewe lambs and hoggs brought from Castle Hill to the Hoar Oak herding – but also because it contains a drawing of a flag which looks very much like the Scottish flag.  Although the Scottish Saltire, as the flag is commonly known as, is actually a white cross on a blue background Bill’s drawing does look uncannily like the Saltire.  We shall never know.  We only know, as will be revealed later, that Bill made many trips to Scotland buying Cheviot rams and may have had the Scottish flag on his mind. In the next postings we’ll continue to share information from Robert Tait Little’s and Bill Little’s collections of stock diaries.  Posting No. 4   Lambs born on Exmoor 1882 and a plague of maggots Robert Tait Little had been employed by Fredric Wynn Knight to be Head Shepherd on the Exmoor Estate.  He was recruited from a sheep farming family in Dumfries and came to Exmoor with his wife Jane.  The image below of Robert and Jane is thanks to Roger A Burton. (Heritage of Exmoor 1989)      For most of his life as Exmoor Head Shepherd, Robert and Jane lived and farmed Duredon  Here is the historic record for Duredon Farm.  MEM23060 – Duredon Farm – The Historic Environment Record for Exmoor National Park. On retirement, and after their children had left home, Robert and Jane were moved to live at Limecombe   MEM23855 – Limecombe Cottages – The Historic Environment Record for Exmoor National Park where their son Tom was the shepherd. As Head Shepherd, Robert’s stock diaries cover all of the sheep farms created by Frederic Wynn Knight and some record information about all of the farms and some about individual farms.  The image below is of a page recording the annual totals for lambs born in 1882 and 1883 on the herdings at Winstitchen, South Forest, Larkboro, Badgeworthy, (H)Oar Oak, Cornham, Duredon and Pinkery.  By comparison, the image below records two pages in Robert’s 1892 stock book which contains specific information about the herding at Badgeworthy Farm.  It includes meticulous records of the number of sheep on a month by month, sometimes week by week basis.  There are other titbits of information included on the page such as the July 1st 1892 record of a ‘plague of maggots’ and a note in the December 1893 record that there was 1 sheep ‘amissing found dead.’  The page ends with a record of the name of the Badgeworthy shepherd at the time – Thomas Armstrong from Scotland.   All of Robert’s diaries contain this sort of ‘stock numbers’ information for all of the Exmoor sheep herdings (from 1880s til his death in 1907) as well as bits and pieces of additional information – much of which has helped The Friends with plotting which Scottish shepherd was on which Exmoor herding on which year as well as when they arrived and when they left – although some of course didn’t leave and their descendants are still on Exmoor.  More about Robert Tait Little on this link: Robert Tait Little – hoaroak. Posting No. 5   Bill Little and his stock diaries. Image: Bill and Dorothy Little (nee Jones of Simonsbath) with son David outside Hoar Oak Cottage. Note: the wrought iron cladding to keep out the damp. Photo thanks to David Little. Bill Little was the son of John Little from Peebles on the Scottish Borders who had been employed by Frederic Winn Knight.  More about the Littles of Peebleshire on this link Little – hoaroak .  Bill married Dorothy Jones from Simonsbath and moved into Hoar Oak Cottage when Bill was employed to run the Hoar Oak herding.  The image shared here is of Bill, Dorothy and their son outside of the cottage in the 1930s.   Later they moved to the herding at Wheal Eliza Mine, aka ‘The Mines’,  in valley of  the River Barle  MSO12505 – 19th Century cottage at Wheal Eliza – The Historic Environment Record for Exmoor National Park Bill Little’s stock diaries, compared to Robert Tait Little’s, tend to be more specific as he is recording activity on one herding.   The image shared here, annotated ‘20’, is of his diary entry for June 1937 for the sheep on the Hoar Oak herding where he records, for example, the numbers of sheared hoggs, of barren ewes, lambs, sheared gimmers and ewes.   As well as the ‘day to day’ or ‘year to year’ records of the count of sheep on the Exmoor herdings it was interesting to find that both Robert Little and Bill Little record quite specific information about the rams or ‘tups’ used for breeding on Exmoor.  And that information leads to links back to the Scottish Borders and the shepherds who came down to Exmoor back in the 19th century to work for the Knight family.  Helped by a great friend of The Friends, Nora Solesbuy from Ayrshire – who has a long professional background in sheep farming and sheep markets – we have been able to interrogate these records and the next few postings dig a bit deeper into the pages of Robert and Bill’s stock diaries which contain information about Scottish rams used for breeding sheep on Exmoor. Nora also has links to the Hoar Oak Cottage story  –  she is part of the Johnstone family who sent two ‘sons’ down to Exmoor from the Scottish Borders – James Maxwell Johnstone  Johnstone – hoaroak   who farmed at Hoar Oak Cottage and William Johnstone who farmed at Badgeworthy – find out a bit more about William on this link https://hoaroakcottage.org/scottish-shepherds/.  Posting 6:  Pedigree Cheviot Rams from Scotland As Exmoor Head Shepherd, Robert Tait Little, would be responsible for ensuring that there were fresh blood lines of tups to breed with the herds on the various sheep farms on Exmoor.  He also needed to ensure that these tups, who would be the sires of new lambs, were from reputable farmers, were physically strong and had no obvious health issues or abnormalities that could be inherited.  As a Scot from Dumfries, it is not surprising that Robert Tait Little would look to the Scottish border farms and sheep sales to regularly find new blood stock.   The image is of a page from Robert Tait Little’s stock diary covering 1889 to 1906 and is entitled ‘Pedigree of Cheviot Tups used at Duredon.’ RTL would use these rams to breed with ewes on his farm at Duredon in order to produce a new generation of young sheep.  To produce young females to replace aged ewes and young males to be assessed for their potential use as tups for breeding.  In time, these new blood lines would be distributed around the Exmoor herdings that Robert Tait Little he was responsible for – Larkbarrow, Toms Hill, Badgeworthy, The Mines (Wheal Eliza), The Chains (Hoar Oak), Duredon, Winstitchen and many others.  This aspect of his job as Head Shepherd required a huge amount of skill, a good eye for both the ram and ewes being bred from and excellent record keeping of which rams went to which Exmoor herding in order to ensure there was no risk of inter-breeding. Nora explains the entry in his stock diary about the Pedigree of Cheviot Tups at Duredon as follows: The first column contains the year the ram was introduced onto Exmoor for breeding and the second column contains breed information about the ram: its sire and the farm it came from.   For example, the 1889 entry records that the ram is called ‘Argyle’ by ‘Sourhope’ (pronounced Soorop). The name ‘Argyle’ indicates he would have been from a line of sheep originating in Argyllshire and his sire was a tup from Sourhope Farm in Kelso which lies within the boundaries of the historic county of Roxburghshire in the Scottish Borders.    Looking at the 1896 entry we learn that, in that year, the ram ‘Selkirk ‘was used for breeding on Duredon.  Selkirk’s sire was also a tup from ‘Sourhope’ which, as with Argyle in 1889, was the name of the farm on which it had been bred.  At that time Sourhope was farmed by Robert Sheil who was well known for the quality of his Cheviot sheep.  Newspaper reports tell of Farmer Sheil selling his Sourhope rams for breeding at markets held in Kelso and St Boswells from 1880 – 1890 and that they were making good prices.  Sadly, none of these reports tell us the names of purchasers Similar information can be gleaned for each entry and Nora reflects that “judging by the number of ewes recorded by Robert Tait Little on each of the Exmoor herdings there would be several other tups involved along with the new ones recorded in his stock diaries.  Tups run with ewes in two, 17 day cycles and are often exchanged with another from a different part of the same herding on the 18th day.  That enables the second tup to catch up with ewes ‘missed’ by the first one.   In the next posting we look at Bill Little’s stock diary and the information he recorded about importing Scottish rams onto Exmoor in the 1960s. Posting No. 7    100 years later and Scottish sheep are in favour In the early 2010s, Bill Little’s son David, who grew up at Hoar Oak Cottage and later Wheal Eliza Farm (aka The Mines), told the Friends how his father was a well-respected sheep breeder on Exmoor, importing fresh bloodstock from Scotland and then sharing their offspring ‘round to the hill farms to refresh the bloodline of the Cheviot sheep.  David remembered going up to Scotland with his Dad, on the train, to attend the Hawick sheep markets in order to purchase new tups which would be shipped back to South Molton on the train.  The image is from one of Bill Little’s Stock Diaries and the page is entitled ‘Cheviot Rams From Scotland’ acquired and used for breeding in the years 1964, 1965 and 1966. Nora’s interpretations of this page tell us such a lot and a few examples are given here: Sheep No. 1 identified as ‘Upper Hindhope’ came from a farm of the same name in Jedburgh, Roxburghshire.  It was farmed by W J Douglas who was President of the Cheviot Sheep Society between 1963 and 1965.  Clearly a prestigious source of a new ram for Exmoor and someone Bill Little, or his father John, would have known about from their roots back in the Borders. Sheep No. 6 in 1964 and Sheep No. 15 in 1966 are listed as coming from Castle Crawford – a farm on the Hopetoun Estate at Crawford, Lanarkshire. It featured regularly in market reports of the 1960s for consistently good animals being bred and marketed from there. Sheep No. 11 from 1965 has the wonderful name of Fingland Wamphray named after Fingland Farm near Wamphray, Dumfries which was owned by Sir John William Buchanan Jardine.  The name allegedly comes from the Old Norse word “fingl” meaning “a marshy place” and the Scottish Irish name Wamh-fri meaning the den or deep glen in the forest. Read more on this link Fingland – Name Meaning and Origin  More of these interpretations from Bill Little’s diary will be included in this post – keep an eye out! Nora’s investigations of both Robert Tait Little and Bill Little’s diaries show that, interestingly, some of the names of the tups, and the farms they come from in Scotland, appear in both diaries. It seems that Bill was purchasing from the same Scottish breeders and farms that Robert had purchased from but six or more decades apart. In the next posting we’ll share a few more titbits of interpretation as well as some oral history and a photo of one of Bill Little’s award winning Cheviot Ram. Posting No. 8    Fit for purpose and the importance of a ‘twirl’.  Throughout both Robert Tait Little’s and Bill Little’s diaries one finds records about sick sheep, sheep that have ‘gone amissing’, sheep that have been sold or sheep that have died.  Indeed, in Bill Little’s list of his Scottish rams he notes those that have died or been sold.   The death of a ram is probably self-explanatory, but Nora explains the reasons why a tup might be sold.  It could be because its offspring were weak or sickly; because the tup had some physical attribute which was inherited by the lambs, for example, having big heads which could cause difficult births and/or damage to the ewes or when, despite being with the ewes for the requisite time period, the tup only sired a small number of lambs.   Perhaps most worryingly, however, is if it is found that the tup has a genetic flaw which wasn’t evident to the shepherd’s eye on market day.   Although a tup can look good when ‘dressed’ for market, there can sometimes be a ‘hidden’ flaw which is inherited by the lambs.  For example, a ‘twirl’ of wool growing on the tup’s forehead which can be passed on to their progeny.  This curl is felt to spoil the sheep’s appearance and can affect the value of the animal. The seller may trim the ‘twirl’ off for sale day, but it will grow back and be noticeable again.  By that time, it is too late for the Buyer to complain and seek a price reduction – especially in the case where the sheep has been brought all the way down from the Scottish Borders.  We’ve tried to find an image of such a ‘terrible twirl’ but with no success.  Any shepherds out their able to help with a photo?  David – Bill Little’s son – remembered accompanying his father on the trips up to the Scottish sheep markets. They would travel by train from South Molton up to the Borders, most often to Hawick in Roxburghshire where there still are important sheep markets.  Hawick Sheep Market was, in the 1960s located alongside the railway yards, making it easy for Bill and his son David to get to the market and then to load beasts purchased at the market onto a train to send down south to Exmoor.  They would purchase both sheep and sheepdogs to breed from and the animals would be crated up for their train journey south.  David recalled how a handwritten note would be attached to the crate saying ‘Please give this animal water’ and presumably some kind member of the train crew would do exactly that. David also recalled how his father would distribute the new rams he had either purchased in Scotland or bred himself on Exmoor around the other sheep farmers up on the Exmoor hill farms.  The shepherds would gather together and Bill would, so David said, put all the names of the tups in a hat and pass it round.   Each shepherd would draw a name out of the hat and that would be the tup he took back to his farm.  However, if Bill knew that that ram should not be run with that particular sheep farmer’s herd, he would ask the shepherd to put the name back in the hat and draw out another one.  In this manner, which relied heavily on Bill Little’s knowledge, skills and memory, there was never any fear of in-breeding.   Nora comments that, “Bill’s distribution methods  makes sense where new tups are being allocated.   As well as avoiding risks of inbreeding Bill would be aware of the general physical condition of the ewes as well as the new tup’s potential ability to cope with the terrain and weather conditions. ” Bill had great success in the local sheep fairs and at local sheep markets on Exmoor and the image is a photo of him with one of his prize-winning Cheviot sheep – possibly at South Molton Market.    In the next posting – Number 9 – we’ll say our farewells to Robert Tait Little and Bill Little and acknowledge their legacy to Exmoor sheepfarming. Posting No. 9 The legacy of two Exmoor Shepherds from ScotlandWe hope you’ve enjoyed reading a little bit about Robert Tait Little’s and Bill Little’s Stock Diaries and the insights they have given into the role of Scottish sheep, in particular breeding rams, on Exmoor in the 19th and 20th centuries. No doubt there are still hints of these blood lines in some of the Cheviot sheep on Exmoor and certainly it is still possible to see Scottish Blackface sheep around Hoar Oak Cottage. Both men’s legacies are recorded, in no small part thanks to the research of Roger A Burton (published in The Heritage of Exmoor) as well the amazing friendliness and generosity of their descendants in sharing information and photos with The Friends of Hoar Oak Cottage. Robert Tait Little was originally employed by the Knight family, he was kept on as Head Shepherd when the Exmoor Estate passed to the Fortescue family. He was still Head Shepherd in 1905 and can be seen in this iconic photo from 1905 of all the Exmoor shepherds taken at shearing time with Lady Fortescue – the 4th Earl’s wife. (Photo thanks to Roger Burton). Robert is in the middle at the back – the tall man with a fine white beard. He retired from Duredon to Limecombe with his wife Jane. Son Tom, shepherd at Limecombe, is also in the photo alone with several other Scottish shepherds – Archie Jackson, three of the other Little family – Will, Will Jr and Jack. Robert Tait Little became ill with cancer in 1906 and in 1907 the Fortescue family paid for him to go to London for an operation. Sadly, Robert died, and his body was returned by train back to Exmoor. His granddaughter told The Friends that when his coffin arrived at the Simonsbath estate office his sheep dogs were there waiting for him. They had come from Limecombe to welcome their master back home. Robert has entries in his stock diaries right up until just a few weeks before he died. Bill Little became something of a local celebrity just before his death in the 1980s. An article about Bill appeared in Big Farm Weekly in October 1981 (photo) It reported that he was awarded a Long Service Medal for his service to the Fortescue Estate. Photo attached. The article notes that as the sheep were on land over 1500 feet above sea level the Exmoor shepherds often had to work in extreme conditions searching for and digging out snowbound ewes. Bill was also the inspiration behind an HTV Documentary – The Sheep Walk – a TV Series fronted by historian Asa Briggs (photo) Asa replicated the often discussed ‘sheep walk’ in which the Scottish shepherds on Exmoor were thought to have walked herds of Cheviot and Blackfaced sheep down to Exmoor from Scotland for the Knight family. Both Bill and his wife Dorothy appeared in the series. That TV film is in the Film and TV Archive in The Box in Plymouth and Asa Briggs donated a video copy to The Friend’s Archive. Both Robert Tait Little and Bill Little are buried in Simonsbath Churchyard. Descendants of both men have become great friends and supporters of The Friends of Hoar Oak Cottage. We continue to research what they and their stock books can tell us not only about sheep farming on Exmoor in the 19th century but the social history of this intriguing period of sheepfarming history on Exmoor. When a Scot’s twang could be heard as frequently as the Devonshire dialect and Hogmanay, not Christmas, was the big celebration of the year.Foot Note: Nowadays there is a healthy return of the native Exmoor breed of sheep – the Exmoor Horn – on Exmoor. This is a beautiful, hardy and resilient sheep which sadly Frederic Wynn Knight, back in the 1850s, rejected in favour of imported Scottish Cheviots and Blackfaced. Paddy Groves – a great-grandson of Scottish shepherd James Maxwell Johnstone who farmed at Hoar Oak Cottage from the 1870s til 1904 https://hoaroakcottage.org/johnstone/ – is a well-respected breeder and proponent of the Exmoor ‘Horny’ as they are affectionately known. The photo is of Paddy’s flock and you can learn more about his farm on https://www.woodsdulverton.co.uk/our-farm/ You can find out more about the Exmoor Horn sheep on this link https://exmoorhornbreeders.co.uk/Exmoor
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1818  Pasture To Let and Prosecution for Trespass

Were the Vellacotts at Hoar Oak affected? The sale of the Royal Forest of Exmoor in 1818 caused some anxiety to those who had century’s old Commoners Rights to take their cattle and sheep up on to the Exmoor Hills for summer pasturage.    In Roger Burton’s file of research notes* – kindly gifted to the Friends for safe keeping – are two interesting references to newspaper articles at the time.   The first is from the 27th August 1818 and is a notice posted in the Taunton Courier by John Knight – the new owner of Exmoor – offering pasturage for a fee on Exmoor.   The notice reads:  ‘Exmoor Forest  Notice is hereby given, that the Royal Allotment on the above Forest will be CONTINUED as a PUBLIC SHEEP PASTURE.  The Price of the Summer Keep of Sheep and Lambs will soon be inserted in this paper.  JOHN KNIGHT.  Simons Bath. August 6, 1818.’ Clearly the new owner Knight intended to keep earning income from farmers using their old right to use the Forest for public sheep pasture.  However, by October of the same year it looks like relations between Knight and the farmers have soured – or maybe this is just a warning shot from Knight across the locals’ bows.  In the October 29th, 1818 edition of the Taunton Courier the tone has changed slightly.  This notice reads:  ‘Exmoor Forest.  Qualified persons are hereby requested not to destroy the GAME and FISH on the above forest.  Poachers will be punished as the law directs.  Those who cut turf, heath or commit any other trespass will be prosecuted without any further notice.  JOHN KNIGHT.  Simons Bath  Sept 30, 1818.’ Elsewhere on these newspaper pages can be seen several types of warnings to ‘qualified’ people to not do what they weren’t ‘qualified’ to do.  In this case ‘qualified’ would probably be more accurately read as ‘allowed’ to do……in other words those farmers allowed to take their beasts up onto the moor for summer pasture were not allowed to fish, shoot game, cut turf or heath or do anything else Knight deemed as trespass. These two little newspaper clippings cast an interesting insight into the shaky period of changeover from Exmoor Forest being a Royal Forest to becoming a private estate. Images: Thank you to the British Newspaper Archive. All Rights Reserved. * The Exmoor Historian, Roger A Burton published ‘The Heritage of Exmoor’ and ‘Simonsbath The Inside Story of An Exmoor Village’. He will also be remembered for his incredible work on researching the history and archaeology of Exmoor mines and mineral lines. Some years ago Roger gave The Friends his file of researches which touched on Hoar Oak Cottage. It comprises a large folder of hundreds of pages of records from the days when research in a public archive meant hand copying the info you were interested in. Roger’s amazing diligence to transcribe documents is breath taking and we will be featuring some of the interesting snippets it reveals here on our blog and in our social media – Facebook and Insta. We have just begun the work to scan and archive every page in his research folder. The pages are now becoming frail and a little bit faded and need some love and digital preservation. The photos below are from left to right: Friend’s trustees Bette Baldwin and Will Bowden meeting with Roger Burton. Roger A Burton’s folder of archive researches covering Hoar Oak Cottage. Friend’s trustees Nicky Rowberry and Bette Baldwin starting work on the folder and Roger at his home in Barnstaple.
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1818 Pasturage to Let. Prosecutions for trespass.

Were the Vellacotts at Hoar Oak affected? The sale of the Royal Forest of Exmoor in 1818 caused some anxiety to those farming families who held century’s old Commoners Rights to take their cattle and sheep up on to the Exmoor Hills for summer pasturage.    In Roger Burton’s file of research notes – kindly gifted to the Friends for safe keeping – are two interesting references to newspaper articles at the time.   The first is from the 27th August 1818 and is a notice posted in the Taunton Courier by John Knight – the new owner of Exmoor – offering pasturage for a fee on Exmoor.   The notice reads:  ‘Exmoor Forest  Notice is hereby given, that the Royal Allotment on the above Forest will be CONTINUED as a PUBLIC SHEEP PASTURE.  The Price of the Summer Keep of Sheep and Lambs will soon be inserted in this paper.  JOHN KNIGHT.  Simons Bath. August 6, 1818.’ Clearly the new owner, John Knight, intended to keep earning income from farmers using their old right to use the Forest as ‘public sheep pasture’.  However, by October of the same year it looks like relations between Knight and the farmers have soured – or maybe this is just a warning shot from Knight across the local farmers’ bows.  In the October 29th, 1818 edition of the Taunton Courier the tone has changed slightly.  See below. This notice reads:  ‘Exmoor Forest.  Qualified persons are hereby requested not to destroy the GAME and FISH on the above forest.  Poachers will be punished as the law directs.  Those who cut turf, heath or commit any other trespass will be prosecuted without any further notice.  JOHN KNIGHT.  Simons Bath  Sept 30, 1818.’ Elsewhere on these newspaper pages can be seen several types of warnings to ‘qualified’ people to not do what they weren’t ‘qualified’ to do.  In this case ‘qualified’ would probably be more accurately read as ‘allowed’ to do……in other words those farmers allowed to take their beasts up onto the moor for summer pasture were not allowed to fish, shoot game, cut turf or heath or do anything else Knight deemed as trespass. These two little newspaper clippings cast an interesting insight into the shaky period of changeover from Exmoor Forest being a Royal Forest to becoming a private estate. During this period the Vellacotts of Furzehill had secured their foothold and rights by converting the shepherd’s hut they had built at Hoar Oak into a permanent cottage for Charles Vellacott and his new wife Elizabeth.  More on this link: https://hoaroakcottage.org/vellacotts-2  Their ‘allotments’ under the sale of the Royal Forest (Nos 279 and 280) meant they were fairly secure in terms of their security on Exmoor and with established rights to take turf and heath and water etc off the moor.   Presumably, however, they were just as susceptible to  prosecution for poaching deer and fish – if they got caught! Thanks to Roger A Burton for his research which led us to these two items.  Thanks to the British Newspaper Archive for use of images BL_0000348_18180827  and of BL_0000348_18181029. All Rights Reserved.  Follow this link to another blog which talks more about the costs for locals to pasture their beasts on Exmoor. Pasturage of livestock on Exmoor – hoaroak
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Supporting Exmoor History Research

Last year, 2023, the Friends were pleased to support research undertaken jointly by the Universities of Plymouth and Exeter which sought to reassess how the ‘reclamation’ of Exmoor under the Knights should be considered.  This research, led by Leonard Baker, used information from two disciplines – archival material and paleoecological data.  Material held in the Friend’s archive, particularly the digitised and transcribed sheep diaries of Scottish Head Shepherd, Robert Tait Little, fed into this research project.  You can find out more about Robert on this link Robert Tait Little – hoaroak (hoaroakcottage.org) The researchers from Exeter and Plymouth felt that their findings enabled them to “position ‘reclamation’ within a sequence of long-term management practices that shaped these complex ecosystems” rather than reclamation being a one-off event of improvement during Knight’s heyday.  They say that “Revaluating the ‘reclamation’ of Exmoor using archival and palaeoecological data reveals critical differences between what historical actors wanted to happen, what they believed was happening and what was actually happening to local ecosystems.”  They explain that “Our work reveals that many of the schemes and projects that historians focus upon during assessments of upland ‘improvement’ were far less ecologically significant than previously assumed.” And that unfortunately, “this was not the exciting story of technological ‘progress’ and ‘conquest’ that the Knights, their agents, or subsequent commentators, wished for.” No doubt many – perhaps most? – of us have ‘bigged up’ what we or ancestors did and would like to be remembered by history in a positive light.  But this new research suggests the need to sometimes reassess what the historical record tells us.  The research team published in 2023 and their paper can be accessed on this link through Open Access Revolution and continuity? Reassessing nineteenth-century moorland reclamation through palaeoecological and archival research (tandfonline.com). *  It is a fascinating read and the same team are currently working on a book revisiting the reclamation of Exmoor story – due for publication in 2024.  For The Friends, it is a delight to be able to bring the record left behind by ordinary people, including Robert Tait Little, into this wider academic community.  His descendants are thrilled that his diaries have, all these years later, been dug into to help tell the ongoing history of Exmoor. *Distributed under the terms of the Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives License (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0/), which permits non-commercial re-use, distribution, and reproduction in any medium, provided the original work is properly cited, and is not altered, transformed, or built upon in any way.
Posted by Bette Baldwin
Archive

Explore Your Archive November 28th:  SMALL OLD CLAY PIPE

One of the smallest items in the Hoar Oak Cottage archive is a clay pipe discovered by one of the building conservation workmen when working on the chimney.  It is approximately 4” in length and the bowl is less than 1” in diameter.  The fingers clasping the bowl may be representing a claw – as in a bird’s claw – but others (who know a thing or two about clay pipes) have suggested it is actually a hand – as in the fingers of a human hand.  The pipe, intact other than a small end piece missing, was found tucked away up inside the chimney built into the western end of the cottage. We know very little about this clay pipe other than it is likely to date from around 1875 to 1915 and could, therefore, relate to the occupants of the cottage around that period.  We have learnt that in some cases, such pipes were hidden in a secret place and left as a tribute to a smoker who had passed away in the house or cottage where the pipe was found.  It seems families might hide the deceased’s precious clay pipe as a sort of ‘in memorium’ to be found in the future. James Maxwell Johnstone was the shepherd living at Hoar Oak Cottage with his wife Sarah and 13 children from 1886 to 1904.  James died at the cottage in March 1904 and records show that Sarah and the children were quickly moved out of Hoar Oak Cottage – a sheep farm always needs a shepherd, and those needs took precedence over those of the bereaved wife and family.  Johnstone family memories include those of James smoking a clay pipe and its intriguing to wonder if when he died, Sarah or one of the older children, hid one of his clay pipes high up in the chimney as a little ‘in memoriam’.  We shall never know but this small artefact is certainly a precious one in the Hoar Oak Cottage archive.
Posted by Bette Baldwin
Exmoor Flora Heritage Nature Uncategorized

The Hoar Oak Tree

There has been a Hoar Oak Tree from time immemorial, marking the boundary between the Royal Forest of Exmoor and Brendon Common.  The term ‘Royal Forest’ denoted a hunting ground or ‘waste’ belonging to the Crown; more often a treeless area and not as we understand the word forest to mean now.  According to McDermot, writing in the early part of the twentieth century, the original tree fell in 1658 and a replacement was planted close by soon after.  This survived until 1916 when the tree now standing was planted.  Despite being over 100 years old this tree remains small and stunted due to the poor soil conditions and the harsh and exposed upland climate.  However, despite its appearance it is healthy and remains in fine condition.

At the time of the First World War, Bill Hobbs was the shepherd living at Hoar Oak Cottage; when he went to war John Jones, his brother-in-law, temporarily took his place.  There is no evidence that either men planted the replacement tree but they certainly would have been aware of its planting.

The Hoar Oak Tree, as has been seen, has a long and important history and is marked on several maps including the current Ordnance Survey.  It also featured on the Ordnance Survey map of 1890 and before that (as Ore Oak) on the Benjamin Doon map of 1765.  An even earlier reference to Whore Oake Ball dates to 1651.

Extensive, natural oak woods do thrive on Exmoor along the coastal belt and also at Horner.  The coastal oak woods are renowned for their wildlife and rare plant communities; the relentless gales and poor growing conditions have also stunted their growth but in a very different way to that of the Hoar Oak Tree.

Oaks are a valuable resource for wildlife.  One of the most common yet overlooked sights are the Spangle galls created by tiny parasitic wasps.  Each gall hosts a larva that is feeding on the leaf tissue beneath it and a single leaf can carry very many galls.  In the autumn the larvae fall to the ground before the leaves and complete their growth cycle protected by the leaf litter, emerging in early spring.  Despite the huge numbers of galls an oak tree can carry the larvae do very little damage.

Regardless of its diminutive size, the Hoar Oak Tree continues to be an important Exmoor landmark.   Situated just yards upstream, it also stands as a living link to the shepherds of Hoar Oak Cottage and their families.

 

 

The Hoar Oak Tree of Exmoor, part of a series of blog posts exploring the flora and fauna that surrounds Hoar Oak Cottage.

 

Posted by Bette Baldwin
Exmoor Flora Nature Uncategorized

Heather on Exmoor

The vast tracts of open heather moorland are one of Exmoor’s glories.  At the height of its flowering in August, the moors seem washed with purple although on closer inspection the flowers vary in colour from darker shades through to pale lavenders and pinks.  The colour variation is partly due to the age of the flower but also to the species.  On Exmoor, all three species can be found: Bell Heather Erica cinerea, Common Heather (also known as Ling) Calluna vulgaris and Cross-leaved Heath Erica tetralix.

For the Scottish shepherds of Hoar Oak Cottage, the view from the parlour window would have not been dissimilar to their home in the Southern Uplands.  Was the sight of the heather hillside in full flower a comforting memory of a distant land or a trigger for home-sickness?  Perhaps they brought with them their traditional uses for the plants – making brooms, stuffing mattresses or as a herbal remedy for coughs and as a general tonic.  In the Highlands, heather was also used as roof insulation material but as the cottage was provided by their employer it is highly unlikely that this would have been carried out at Hoar Oak; no evidence of this was uncovered during the recent stabilising of the ruins.

To find out more of heather, or indeed many of the everyday aspects of the past life of Exmoor, it is often necessary to read through old books to glean information.  One of our favourite sources is Red Deer, written by Richard Jefferies in 1884.  About heather he mentions several things that we may have not appreciated such as how, when the weather is hot and dry, “the brittle, woody stems of the heather wear out the stoutest boots quickly.”  He also describes the burning (“swaling”) of the heather each spring.

Swaling, which appears to be a West Country dialect word, is now tightly controlled by legislation but the principal of deliberate burning the moorland vegetation to promote regeneration dates back centuries.  Recent research has found burnt deposits buried deep in the peat layers dating from the medieval period (source: ENPA).  Swaling, like many other farming practices is carried out on a rotational basis over a number of years.  In this way, there are heather plants ranging in age from the tasty, young growth of the newly burned providing food for the deer, ponies and sheep, and older growth giving cover and shelter to birds and other wildlife.  For more information on swaling and the results of recent research visit this link.

Heather on Exmoor, part of a series of blog posts exploring the flora and fauna that surrounds Hoar Oak Cottage.

 

 

Posted by Bette Baldwin
Education & Schooling Exmoor Shepherd Little The Womens Life Uncategorized

Advice on Education From a Shepherd’s Wife, 1876

Sometimes, when doing archival research, a snippet of information which is a bit fun and seemingly not terribly relevant pops up its head.  Suddenly you spot a word or phrase – in this case “Scotch [sic] shepherd’s wife” – and it becomes worthy of pursuing.  Here is just such a case – enjoy!

 

An article in the Exeter and Plymouth Gazette for Thursday April 20th, 1876 appears primarily to do with North Tawton* School.  It starts as follows:

“The Earl of Portsmouth was the means of conferring a great boon upon Devonshire when he initiated the foundation of the Middle-class School at Northtawton [sic] and he has obliged the country at large by inducing the Liberal ex-Minister of Education to come and speak at its anniversary this year, his lordship thereby proving himself instrumental in giving to the country the very important utterances which Mr. Forster delivered yesterday.”

A chummy, if somewhat dry, start to the article but a paragraph further on begins to get to the issue to hand.  It tells us:

“The speech made by Mr. Forster at Northtawton yesterday will send confusion and dismay, to be quickly followed by deep-seated resentment, into the camp of the Birmingham Leaguers.  Nothing could be clearer or more unmistakable than the right hon. gentleman’s pronouncement in favour of religious education.” 

Clearly, at the heart of this newspaper piece is the issue of non-denominational education and the concern that should ex-Education Minister Forster ever become re-elected Education Minister, a wave of worry will spread through the Secularists.  However, hard on the heels of this journalist concern comes the next paragraph (and the one that interests us)  which states:

“Mr. Forster imported a whole cargo of Scottish educational ideas into Northtawton yesterday.  Doubtless it is to the lessons received by the right hon. gentleman during his visit to “the land o’cakes” last year, supplemented by the impression made upon him by his conversation with the Scottish shepherd’s wife whose cottage he entered during a recent ramble over Exmoor, that we owe the glorification of Scottish education to which Mr. Forster treated his hearers at Northtawton yesterday.  In truth, his speech favoured a great deal too much of Caledonianism.”. 

Oh dear, Mr Forster – they weren’t liking what you were telling them!  And some more rhetoric along a similar line is followed by this critical warning:

“Devonshire people are not going to fall down and worship John Knox and adapt their modes of thought and actions to Scottish fashions, because Mr W. E. Forster happens to have been across the Border, and to have talked with a Scotch (sic) shepherd’s wife on Exmoor.  The right hon. gentleman’s reference, by-the-way, to the latter, did not seem very relevant to the eulogium of the Scottish school system in which it was introduced, seeing it appears that the good woman does not send her children to school at all, but instructs them at home.” 

So who was this ‘good woman’ quietly minding her business in her cottage on Exmoor when the Liberal ex-Minister for Education calls in and asks about how she educates her children!  Whatever did she think about it all? Did she know he was coming or did he literally just stroll by and drop in?  We know from first hand reports what one woman in a lonely cottage out on the moor did when a stranger came by. Perhaps Mr. Forster caught this one unawares?  And which Scottish shepherd’s wife might it have been?

In 1876, it could have been Mrs Tait Little – she arrived on the moor around 1872 to join her husband Robert Tait Little.  They already had 2 children born in Scotland and by the 1881 census had two more so very likely to be home-educating them.  Jane Little (below) looks potential ‘home teacher’ material.

Or maybe it was Mrs Fanny Davidson, wife of Scottish Shepherd William Davidson, out at Hoar Oak. By 1876 when this article was written they already had three children (four more were to follow) and were living at Hoar Oak Cottage. Perhaps Mr Forster had strolled out to see the Hoar Oak Tree on the Devon/Somerset boundary and stumbled across the family at Hoar Oak Cottage?  Unfortunately, we have no photo of Fanny – if any of our readers are connected to the Davidsons and can tell us more we will be delighted to hear from them.

* the ancient town of North Tawton lies some forty miles to the south-west of Hoar Oak Cottage

 

Posted by Bette Baldwin
Johnstone Messines WW1

Thomas Johnstone on The Somme

Thomas Johnstone

100 Years Ago at Messines, Belgium   June 1917
On the night of 9th June 1917, the 5th Battalion of the Dorsetshire Regiment took over the forward trenches at Torreken Farm just north of the wrecked village of Messines on the night of 9th June 1917.

They faced enemy artillery which was located on the Messines Ridge overlooking the area and as a result had heavy casualties – men killed and wounded – every day.  They remained in these positions for 10 days until relived by an Irish regiment on the 19th June.

This is a link to the a You Tube clip which tells the hideous, courageous, unbelievable but successful story of the battle at the Messines Ridge.  It is told from the perspective of the Irish regiments but gives a clear picture of what life would have been like for Thomas in the June of 1917.

These two links tell Thomas Johnstone’s story:

Thomas Johnstone Goes To War
Letters to Sarah Johnstone

Posted by Bette Baldwin